In the first two blogs about Sipadan I wrote about how to get there and what the accommodations and food were like at the rig.
Now it's time to talk about the diving! (Woohoo!) Here are the photos to match the reading: http://www.flickr.com/photos/joepiclicks/sets/72157616959159766/
One thing that people don't readily know is that Sipadan is one of the islands/dive areas in this place and there are actually two other main islands or dive areas which are Mabul and Kapalai. So when you say you're diving in Sipadan – you're actually going to be diving Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai. To be honest, all areas are fantastic diving, but the main difference in Sipadan is that there are tons of sharks and barracudas to see (as well as the possibility of hammerheads and mantas which we did not see.)
So in these three areas, there are at least 3 major resorts. The Kapalai resorts (there are 2) and the one where we stayed in – Seaventures. But in Semporna, there are plenty of diveshops and hotels that cater to divers. Now with that in mind, think of how many divers there are out there in a weekend – say at least 200 (that's a conservative number I reckon.) Imagine this now – Sabah Parks will only release around 100 dive passes for Sipadan in a day (that's the number I heard the DM say.) Needless to say, this was quite an issue for our group of 40 divers who were all wanting to dive Sipadan in the 4 days that we were there. I only got to dive Sipadan in one day and was lucky to dive 2 different sites. It was pretty messed up and I think it was not handled very well. So if you're planning a trip there – this is the FIRST thing you take care of. I have heard of several horror stories where folks from far away went to Sipadan and were unable to get their passes. Mind you they are strict and they are scary mofo's there with Military watching the island. Ok – this was the ONLY issue I had with diving in Sipadan. Everything else was great! So let's get on with the great stuff!
MABUL & KAPALAI
My experience: Mabul is the area right in front of Seaventures and we went to this dive site first. I have to say – tip when traveling + diving = as much as possible REST the night before and NEVER dive when you are dehydrated. This was the first time that I had gone diving feeling disoriented and tired and bothered. I was watching the jacks in the artificial reef and taking a video had never been such a struggle. I tried to calm myself but the viz at that time was not fantastic and I was trying to photograph + calm myself + catch up with the group. As soon as we surfaced I was really not myself anymore. First, I saw my camera drifting away, so I swam after it (imagine that – I LET GO of my camera – I never like being apart from it! How could I let that slip through my wrist?) Second, after safe-guarding my camera, I looked for my mask which I took off because I had wanted to breathe properly… it was gone too. I didn't have a spare mask at the time so I was really really bummed about it thinking of the extra cost of having to buy a mask. BUT good thing we have wonderful dive friends who have dive shops and want to have their items tested – so I got to try the Atomic mask – which to be honest has a very very good lens – it's beautiful and I didn't hand it back.

Anyway, going back to the diving – the diving in this area is interesting and I was happy to go back several times in different sites around the island. What can you see in Mabul: Lots of things to see, mostly macro and an occasional big turtle surprise

This is where I saw my first mandarin fish, big hunk of a turtle with a chunk on off it's shell and of course a couple more turtles – they are really friendly and are not shy, leaf fish, blue-spotted sting rays (lots!), garden eels, cuttlefish, schools of jacks, frog fish of different colors, nudibranchs, smaller barracudas and Titan Triggerfish. It's very very easy diving in this area and very good for exploring. I actually wish we spent more time in some areas – but it's quite difficult to do that with a big group and when you know you have more dives coming up. There are some areas though that are deeper where you will start seeing the sharks and the barracudas. Careful with the lone barracudas – they can attack you. As for the triggerfish – it attacked Jessa and Tricia. Nasty buggers as always — the triggerfish! Not Jessa and Tricia! LOL!
SIPADAN ISLAND
The diving in Sipadan is of course – awesome. We didn't have the best viz in the world as it was raining top side so the sun wasn't shining – BUT as soon as I hit the water – the richness of the reef just makes you stop and just look around first – there were so many things happening all at the same time I didn't know where to look! There was a shark passing by at 20 feet of water, there was a huge school of jacks to the side and there was another school of barracudas nearby as well. You'd see batfish swimming after turtles, sharks going about their business, some swimming, some sleeping. There is just such a variety of fish to see that you just have to keep your eyes open at all times. You have to keep a look out in the blue as well just in case you can catch a glimpse of bigger sharks. I never saw anything though. I was already too happy to just watch everything around me. One of the most interesting moments I had in there was at 25 feet of water, big momma turtle (and I mean BIG) had just come from the surface for a breath of air and had settled by a rock where we were about to do our safety stop. She stayed there and did not move despite the many photos taken of her and all of us trying to have a moment with her. I know I shouldn't be that close to it, but looking at her eyes was such a magical moment. She looked so peaceful and it was just so calming to be by her side. I looked at the tag on her flippers and it said she came from Turtle Island in Sandakan – which is many, many kilometers away from Sipadan! No wonder she was tired!
We did a total of two dives there for that one day (I will tell you about the dive pass fiasco some other time) After our first dive, we had a quick brekky of sorts on the island, then back in the water for one more dive and then back to the resort.Will I say it was the best dive I've had? Probably not, but it is definitely up there with "must go back and see more!"
Leaving Sipadan, we saw a shirt in the souvenir shop that said "Hammer your head if you didn't see the Hammerheads"… I won't hammer my own head just yet. I will be back, and I WILL see them someday…
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